Lunch with the Pros
It's that time of year again... the time of year when things really start heating up! The time of the year when we erect the tents, unfold the tables and chairs, and get the grill piping away to cook some incredible food for YOU - The Professional Plumbers! Every year has been a better turnout than the one previous.
Stay tuned for more information about June's featured sponsors:
Mother's Day Gift Ideas
As Mother's Day is quickly approaching on Sunday, May 8th, many men are dumbfounded on what to get their Moms for Mother's Day. We want to offer some unique ideas that might not be the norm - but will be sure to make her smile.
New Kitchen Faucet
Sprucing up an old kitchen faucet with a new option can transform the look and feel of a kitchen. If the home has not been updated in a while, there are several new options available that likely weren't available in the past. New technology, new styles, and new finishes mean there is an option to fit any style and application.
Touch Activated Faucets come on with a tap on the handle or spout. These are great for turning the water on using the back of your hand, forearm, or other body part if ones hands are covered in dirt, or have been handling raw meat. Touch activated Faucets can be found from Brizo, and Delta.
A motion activated faucet, unlike the touch-activated, does not need contact to turn on. Using sensors that shoot up from the top of the spout, and out from the base of the spout, the faucet will turn on when you wave your hands over the top, or in front of it. This is great for when your hands are messy and you don't even want to touch the faucet to turn it on and risk contamination. The only drawback to this faucet (as silly as it sounds) is there is a learning curve. If you don't know about the sensors, you might get your sleeve wet a few times before being cautious about the faucet coming on. The motion activated faucets can be found from Kohler and Moen.
Curved Shower Rod
A shower rod may sound like a lame Mother's Day gift, but how many times have you stayed at a hotel, pulled the shower curtain closed, and thought: 'Wow, I'd love to have one of these at home!'? For only $24.00 - This is a great gift that she will be able to enjoy every day!
Donner Curved Shower Rod
Do You Use Your Garbage Disposal Like You Should?
Did you know that just about ANY food can be put down an InSinkErator Pro series garbage disposer? Actually, the only food that InSinkErator will freely admit that they absolutely cannot get to grind in their disposers is Mako Shark skin. Who knew?
But seriously, chicken or fish bones, avocado pits, potato peels, egg shells, onion skins, lettuce... all the usual culprits that clog up a lesser quality disposer is no challenge for InSinkErators dual or triple grind technology.
Not only will you save roughly 30% of food waste from entering the landfill, you will it do much more quietly than with other models of disposers!
So stop carrying those potato peels, chicken bones, and anything else across the kitchen and over to the garbage. Stop the risk of dripping contaminating juices on the floor or cabinets, and making a mess. Simply put all that mess down the drain and let an InSinkErator Pro Series garbage disposer chew, macerate, and grind the food waste to tiny bits that quickly and easily flush down the drain!
Toledo Edison Rebates
Toledo Edison & First Energy have many rebates for businesses and homeowners, with incentives for upgrading to more efficient products. Throughout the year we often see rebates for installing high efficient furnaces, boilers, and water heaters.
For Businesses the rebates include:
- Lighting Rebates and Incentives
- Specialty Programs (custom buildings and custom equipment)
- Mercantile Customer Programs
- Large Commercial & Industrial Opt-Out Programs
We are taking advantage of the lighting program by replacing incadascent and old florescent light tubes with high efficient LED options. Another option that should really be considered is the HVAC Maintenance program. You can receive $15.00/ton of cooling when you have your equipment serviced and tuned up.
For those with boiler heat, you can receive a $50.00 rebate for changing out a variable speed pump, like the Grundfos Alpha which matches the GPM flow to that of the heating requirements, meaning it never uses more energy than is exactly needed to send the right amount of heat where its needed.
For Homeowners there are also several programs available:
- Community Connections for low-income (provides home improvements for energy efficiency)
- Easy Cool Rewards Program (participants receive a free [$250 value] Honeywell programmable thermostat for their Central A/C)
- Appliance Turn In Program (receive up to $50.00 for turning in an old fridge or freezer).
- Home Energy Analyzer (register using your bill and get your home's energy use analyzed, with recommendations for improvements, and ways to save money).
Free Omaha Steaks Promotion!
What's better than delicious tender, top quality steaks, lobster tails, and crab legs? FREE Top Quality Steaks, Lobster Tails, and Crab Legs!
From January 1st, 2017 through March 31st, 2017, your purchases with Maumee Supply and Waterhouse Bath & Kitchen Studio could be eligible to earn various Omaha Steak & Seafood Packages.
How does it work:
1. Send in your Registration Form to: firstname.lastname@example.org.
2. You will be notified of your sales from January 1st, 2016 - March 31st, 2016. This number is your benchmark.
3. Increase your sales during the same period this year beyond the benchmark to qualify for that Promotional Package.
Packages and Options:
Rules and Regulations:
1. Limit one registration per company
2. Accounts must be current and in good standing to participate.
3. Special Orders, Negotiated Bids, and Direct Shipments may be excluded.
4. If your purchases from 1/1/16 - 3/31/16 were less than $2,000 - your benchmark is $2,000.
5. Please allow 4-6 weeks for fulfillment.
6. Limit three packages per company.
7. Substitutions of equal or greater value may be made depending on availibility.
8. Maumee Supply reserves the right to change or cancel this promotion without written notification.
How Scotty Got his Flow Back
Is your flow to a kitchen or bathroom faucet not what it used to be? Maybe the hot side flows better than the cold, or vice-versa? Perhaps your shower makes a whistling noise and the spray doesn't feel as powerful as it once was.
If you're on City of Toledo Water (Toledo, Perrysburg, Maumee, Sylvania, Holland, and more), chances are your under-counter stops have some deposit buildups on them, restricting flow. This buildup can also build up on the aerator at the end of faucet spout, or pullout spray head for a kitchen faucet. The same buildup can happen to your shower valve.
If you have quality quarter-turn stops, you can soak them in vinegar to dissolve the calcium buildup. If you have older multi-turn stops that are corroded and difficult to operate, you will want to look at replacing them.
Here are some pictures of the stops that we replaced in our own home after we realized we were not getting equal pressure from the Hot and Cold sides of our kitchen faucet:
Cleaning or Replacing your Stops
- Shut the water off at the main and open your faucets (upper and lower floors, including any basement faucets) to drain the water from the lines.
- Using the proper wrenches, disconnect the supply lines and remove the stops (you'll want to have a small towel handy for any water that may be left in the lines).
- Inspect the supply lines to the faucet, as well as the stub-outs that the stops were connected to. If the stops are in good condition, try to remove as much calcium buildup as possible from the inside with a small wire brush, then let them soak in white vinegar for 20-30 minutes. Use a small brush to further break up and free any leftover deposits.
- If the stops are old and not in great condition, consider replacing them with quarter turn stops. These only have to turn 90 degrees to shut off the water, and are much more effective than the older multi-turn stops. Make sure to take note what the connection style is to the pipe (compression, threaded, sweat on, push-on, pex crimp on, etc).
- Reinstall your cleaned or new stops.
- Turn the water back on at the main and check for leaks.
- When the water at the main is turned off and back on, debris can break free in the line and end up in your faucet aerator and shower heads.
Different Types of Aerators and Keys
Cleaning your Faucet Aerator
- If possible, unscrew the aerator under the faucet spout by hand. Chances are, you will need a wrench to break the aerator free. Be sure to use the proper wrench, and avoid pliers if possible to prevent scratching the aerator.
- Some kitchen faucets or commercial faucets require a special aerator key to get the aerator off. If you are installing a new faucet, this key will be in the box - make sure to store it in a spot where you won't lose it!
- Simply rinse any debris from the aerator. Turn the faucet on and let the hot and cold sides run for a second to flush anything that may be lingering in the line.
- Reinstall the aerator so its snug, but do not overtighten.
Stop into our sales counter or give us a call at 800-552-0156 so we can help you get your flow back!
Maintaining your Tankless Water Heater
Tankless water heaters work by passing cold water over very hot heat exchanger, allowing cool water to rise to appropriate use temperatures quickly. Anytime water is heated and comes in contact with metal, the dissolved solids (scale and hardness) have a tendency to coagulate and build up and to these hot metal components.
If not cleaned properly, the scale buildup will not only prevent the heat from properly transferring from the metal to the water and you lose efficiency, over time, and it can cause that heat exchanger to overheat and damage the unit.
Most tankless water heater manufacturer's suggest that they be cleaned and 'descaled' annually. This will ensure that any buildup or scale is flushed from the system, allowing the unit to run at optimum performance for 20+ years.
To flush the system, you will need a 3-5 gallon bucket, a descaling agent such as a chemical descaler such as Hercules Haymaker or Whitlam Flow Aid, a submersible pump, and hoses. You can piecemeal the materials together on your own, or purchase a kit for a discounted price with all the components included such as a Whitlam Flow Kit.
The Flow Kit includes a bucket, pump, inlet and outlet hoses, as well as one treatment of descaling. After the first cleaning, you can choose to purchase white vinegar to flush your system, or continue to use biodegrable cleaners like the ones mentioned above. Dedicated system descalers such as he Whitlam brand descaler can dissolve up to 2 pounds of calcium and scale per quart of descaler, and works 3-4 times more effectively than white vinegar. We don't advocate using vinegar since it is not as effective as cleaning the heat exchanger.
Below is a very detailed video showing the process of descaling a Rinnai Tankless Water Heater's heat exchanger. In order to perform this annual maintanance, the installing contractor should have installed valves to isolate the unit while turning off the external water supply. This will make performing the maintenance a snap.
1. Shut off the gas supply to the unit and shut off the inlet and outlet water valves.
2. Connect hoses to the flush valves via the 3/4' garden hose connections.
3. Drain any water that is in the unit.
4. Dillute the descaling liquid to the necessary strength (Whitlam is 1 quart to 1 gallons of water)
5. Run the descaling agent for 30-45 minutes through the cold side, and out the hot side into the bucket with the recirculating pump.
6. Inspect the cold water inlet filter. Click here to replace yours.
7. Remove the pump and hose from the cold water side. Leave the hose connected to the hot water side.
8. Turn on the cold side water and flush the unit with clean water for 3-5 minutes until all the water runs clear.
9. Remove the hose from the hot side, shut the cleaning valve, open the hot valve, turn the gas back on and allow the unit to run like new again!
For any questions about cleaning your tankless water heater, contact us at 800-552-0156, or email email@example.com
Replacing a Sump Pump
Sump pumps are one of the necessary evils that any newer home with a basement will likely have. At some point, these mechanical devices are bound to fail, and when they are replaced, it’s important to choose the correct unit.
Most think that if their 1/3hp sump pump fails, they should replace it with a 1/2hp pump; because, More is Better. Right? Usually not when it comes to sump pumps.
Let’s have a look how much water our sump pumps actually need to be able to pump, and when they fail, what parts normally fail.
When it rains, any water not routed away from the foundation by gutters will take the path of least resistance and run down the foundation, until it hits the footer tile. From there, it is routed to a sump basin (also called a sump crock) where it is collected, and then manually pumped away to a storm drain or other holding area. Most sump basins will old between 24 and 33 gallons of water (if possible, always choose a larger sump basin).
A standard 1/3hp pump will pump between 30-34 gallons of water per minute at 8’-10’ of head (the height it needs to pump the water up to).
A standard 1/2hp pump will pump between 60-65 gallons of water per minute at 8’-10’ of head.
Most pumps fail because the mechanical switch that turns the pump on burns out. In a standard sump crock, a 1/3hp pump will empty the crock in about a minute. A 1/2hp pump will only run for 15-20 seconds, causing the pump to turn on and off, causing more cycles, and more wear on the pump switch. Although there are rare instances when there is so much water that with the pump running, a 1/3hp pump cannot keep up, and then a 1/2hp pump would be recommended, or putting in two 1/3hp pumps to cycle based on the height of the water would be even better.
Zoeller understands that the switch is the most likely culprit to fail, and is now making beefier 1/3hp sump pump with a fortified switch, and upgraded impeller and components. This pump comes with an unprecedented 5 year warranty.
When in doubt with what you might need, we encourage you to give us a call and we can help point you in the right direction! 800-552-0156.
Install Ice Guard Now for a worry-free winter!
Ice Guard from EasyHeat allows snow and ice to melt and flow down your gutters, rather than freezing and turning into damaging icecicles, dangerous ice slicks on walk ways, and costly mold and water damage inside your walls.
We understand that with the highs in the mid-90's this week, the last thing on everyone's mind is SNOW and ICE, but preparing now for the winter is a lot easier than trying to do it when the flurries begin!
EasyHeat also makes "heat tape," a braided wire cable that heats itself only in areas that measure below 32 degrees. While you're thinking about protecting your roof and gutters, it's a good ideal to think about frozen pipes on outside walls or in crawl spaces. Wrap these vulnerable pipes in heat tape, and then cover in pipe insulation to keep your pipes from freezing when Jack Frost is wreaking havoc!
Reverse Osmosis Filtration for Toxic Toledo Water
Every summer for the past few years, the city of Toledo and surrounding suburbs have been on high-alert as the algae blooms flourish and produce a toxicity in the water known as Microcystin. This Microcystin cannot be removed by standard filters, becomes concentrated when boiled, and causes damage to the liver, as well as many other side effects and organs when ingested in higher than accepted levels.
Watts Water Technology's Reverse Osmosis system is only one of two certified by the NSF/ANSI 58 to pass the test and be able to clearly state that their system effectively reduce: 'Pentavalent Arsenic, Barium, Cadmium, Chromium (Hexavalent), Chromium Trivalent), Copper, Turbidity, Fluoride, Lead, Radium 226/228, and Selenium' from drinking water.
Although no such independent tests have been performed specifically on Microcystin (the toxin that the algae blooms produce that shut down the Toledo Water Supply in previous years), given that microcystin is roughly 3nanometers (0.003 microns) in size, and the Reverse Osmosis Membrane can filter down to 0.01nanometers (0.0001 microns), it seems reasonable to conclude that the reverse osmosis membrane would prevent the microcystin toxin from passing through. The City of Perrysburg has purchased three high capacity mobile reverse osmosis systems in the event the microcystin toxicity levels rise to above normal levels again this year.
We are gauging customer interest to see if a reverse osmosis system like the ones below would be something our customers would like us to keep in stock on the shelves.
The entry level 4-stage system comes complete with everything for hookup, and starts at $295, and goes up for features like Quik-Change filter Cartridges ($475), and Self-Rinsing Zero-Waste Membranes ($650).
See all the options we carry here: Watts Water Filtration.
Water, Water everywhere, but not in your basement!
A basement is essentially the opposite of a swimming pool or pond. It's a deep hole in the ground, which nature wants to fill with water. You obviously want to keep it dry.
To understand why we need sump crocks and sump pumps in our basements, think back to the time when you were a child playing on the beach. When you would dig a deep hole in the sand, it would start filling up with water. The same wants to happen with our basements.
Sometimes the water table is below the lowest portion of the foundation, when worrying about water is not an issue. Other times during periods of freezing and thawing, as well as heavy rains, the ground becomes saturated, and the water table raises up just like the shallow water table at the beach. It is times like these when it becomes a battle with Mother Nature to keep that water out.
Water wants to travel the path of least resistance, always seeking the lowest point. Gravel around your home's foundation allows water to drain vertically down, rather than horizontally sideways into your home. When the water reaches the lowest point, it finds the footer tile; a perforated pipe that allows water to collect and run away from the foundation, or to a sump crock, where the water is then pumped out to the city storm sewer.
Without a mechanical sump pump, the water would continue flowing into the sump crock, and rise until it reaches a level equal to outside the basement walls. Selecting a quality sump pump that is sized correctly is important to have years of water-free basement enjoyment. Select a sump pump that has a metal or cast iron housing which keep the pump motor cool during periods of heavy usage by transferring the heat to the cool water in the sump crock. Cheaper pumps with plastic housings cannot dissipate the heat and will burn out more quickly.
Some folks think that if they had a 1/3HP sump pump and it wore out, by replacing it with a 1/2HP sump pump will be BETTER. In most instances, this could not be further from the truth. If the basement was kept dry while a 1/3HP pump was running, moving up to larger, more powerful pump will only cause the pump to start and stop more often, causing the pump to burn out more quickly.
Regardless of what pump you have and the configuration, the devices are mechanical and at some point, will wear out and break.
- Check your sump pump often an make sure it is operating freely
- Clear out any debris that may have made its way into the sump crock or fallen in
- Install an alarm to be alerted if the sump pump were to fail
- Use a water (preferred) or battery (well water system) powered back up to keep the space dry during storms when power can go out.
Even if your basement isn’t a finished living space, it is likely there are appliances, and storage items down there that would be very costly to replace if water got in. You know what they say about an ounce of prevention!
Keep Your Sink Looking Brand New
During the Holidays, your kitchen likely took a beating. Thanksgiving is statistically the hardest one day per year on the kitchen. If you hosted or prepared meals for Christmas, baked cookies, or just had more activity than normal, chances are your kitchen sink could benefit from a little revitalization.
Stainless Steel sinks need to be cared for and cleaned to keep (or bring back) their original beauty. Without proper maintenance, stainless steel can become dull, scratched, and (surprisingly) stained.
DAILY: Most soaps and detergents contain chlorides, which your stainless steel sink does not like. Rinse your sink with cool water after each use to make sure any chlorides aren’t sitting on the surface.
WEEKLY: Weekly (or daily if you prefer a constant clean look), use an abrasive powdered cleaner (Bon-Ami, Zud, Bar Keepers Friend, etc). Unlike other surfaces, stainless steel is very durable, and stands up well to abrasive cleaners. Stainless Steel, like wood, has a grain; always scrub in the direction of the grain. When scrubbing, use a Scotchbrite or scouring pad, but never use steel wool, which can leave iron particles behind that will rust.
*If your stainless steel sink has a clear coating – DO NOT use abrasive cleaners, and clean with the manufacturer’s recommended instructions.
- For a less abrasive cleaner, try using baking soda and water.
- When you clean or rinse your sink, try drying it. Drying is great to prevent rust spots or water marks.
- For an extra sparkle and shine, polish your sink with flour. Apply dry flour and rub with a soft dry cloth. Wipe away any extra flour, then rinse and re-dry.
- Additional shine can be added by wiping a dry sink with a few drops of baby oil on a soft cloth.
- Don’t allow cookware, utensils, or sponges to sit in your sink for extended periods of time. They will trap moisture against the surface and can lead to rust and staining.
- A rubber mat at the bottom will also trap moisture, instead, consider using the manufacturer’s recommended wire rack to keep items from sitting against the sink surface.
- Don’t use your sink as a cutting board – special cutting boards can be ordered to sit on top of a portion of the bowl so scraps can be easily discarded. Cutting on your sink’s surface will scratch and damage the finish.
Get More Hot Water for Free!
For many, replacing a hot water heater is an afterthought until it starts leaking and it is too late. During the winter, more water heaters fail than during any other time of the year. The main reason for this, is due to the thermal shock that the tank experiences when the warm tank is dramatically cooled from the much colder incoming water temperatures.
Below are some tips to keep your water heater running at peak efficiency, year after year. Even with the best care, your water heater will eventually wear out and need to be replaced - but you can delay the inveitable with these tips!
GIVE IT A BLANKET
Wrapping your water heater with insulation can prevent standby heatloss by 25-40% and save your energy bill anywhere from 4-9%. Make sure to follow the Water Heater Manufacturer's instructions, and any instructions that come with the insulation kit to ensure that any areas that should not be covered are left open.
In addition to the water heater, wrap all the hot water pipes with insulation to help ensure the hot water created is still hot when it arrives to its destination.
GET THE GUNK OUT!
When water is heated, it can leave behind sediment. You may notice sediment build up up on your faucets or shower head. This build up is also occurring inside your water heater. With a natural gas or propane style water heater, this sediment falls to the bottom where the gas burner hits, and it can drastically reduce the efficiency of your water heater. To flush your tank, turn off the gas or electricity to the unit, as well as the cold water inlet. Hook up a garden hose to the drain port at the bottom, and allow the tank to flush until the water coming out runs clean. Before refilling, go to the next step.
GIVE A NOD TO THE ANODE ROD
The anode rod is a sacrificial metal rod (usually magnesium or aluminum) that hangs in the water in the tank, and its sole purpose is to corrode and dissolve. A typical anode rod lasts 6 years, but can disintegrate much more quickly depending on several factors in your water. Without getting into a full blown chemistry lesson - a method called electrolysis allows certain metals to corrode first before other metals shared in water corrode. The sacrificial anode rods break down and prevents the inside of the steel tank from rusting. Once these anode rods are used up, your tank will likely begin rusting and lead to leaking.
If your water heater is close to 6 years old, remove your existing anode rod from the top of the tank (while the tank is empty) and replace it with a new one. This $40-60 fix will help keep the insides of your water heater corrosion and rust free.
Tips for Unclogging a Toilet
Did you know that most people use a plunger incorrectly when trying to unclog a toilet? Ok, maybe they don't stick the wooden handle in the toilet, but there is more to plunging a toilet than simply putting the rubber end into the toilet and pushing like mad.
Step 1: Insert the rubber end into the toilet. If possible, purchase a plunger with a rubber flange that inserts into the toilet trapway partially. This helps prevent water from splashing and directs the push down the drain where you want it, and not back in your face, or on the floor.
Step 2: Gently depress the handle to push all the air out of the plunger cup. Slowly pull back, filling the plunger cup up with water. At this point, you have the plunger cup ready to start plunging.
Step 3: Push the water back into the drain with modest force - enough to try to remove the clog, but not enough to make the toilet water spill over, and quickly pull back.
Step 4: If the clog doesn't break free after 15-20 vigorous thrusts, try pushing the water out of the plunger, and while keeping a seal, forceably pull back on the plunger. Often times pulling back will pull the clog up the drain enough to reposition it, and allow the clog to flow freely down the drain. Try this method for several pulls if it doesn't break free at first.
Step 5: If the clog STILL doesn't break free, you will want to try a closet snake. These devices can navigate the trapway of the toilet and into the drain to push or pull the clog through.
Step 6: If your closet snake isn't long enough, you will likely have to pull the toilet and auger the drain line from the flange. It is best to call a professional in for this (The picture below are roots that were pulled from a line).
Once your clog is cleared with either a plunger, drain snake, or auger, you will want to flush several more times to ensure the clog gets all the way out to the sewer or septic system.
Water Jet vs Cable Machine Cutter
Since the introduction of water jets more than 25 years ago, drain cleaning professionals have pondered this question – do high pressure water jets replace cable drain cleaners?
The answer is yes and no. Traditional cable drain cleaners do a great job of cutting up tree roots and retrieving objects. But when it comes to grease clogs, cables have a difficult time.
Water jets, on the other hand, are ideal for clearing grease choked lines, as well as flushing sand from bellied lines, and melting ice clogs. Jets use a stream of high pressure water that cuts the grease off the walls of the pipe and flushes it away. The thrust of the nozzle drives the hose down the line for wall-to-wall cleaning action.
Electric jets typically offer a maximum of 1500psi at about 2 gpm. Trying to get more pressure from an electric motor runs the risk of pulling too many amps and popping breakers. Better to use a gas-powered jet. You get twice the pressure and flow rate than that of electric jets. It gives you the power to cut through tough stoppages, pull the hose down longer lines, and the flow to flush larger lines clean. Gas jets can also be used to clear indoor drain lines with a portable reel. It lets you use the power of gas jets in buildings and confined spaces where exhaust fumes could be hazardous, while the jets stay safelyoutside.
Beware of trying to convert your pressure washer into a water jet. Jets use vibration to overcome the friction in the pipe and help the hose glide around bends and further down the line. If you don’t have pulse, the hose could get stuck in the pipe.
For more information on what water jets can do for you, watch this video.
The Rinnai Difference
When it comes to hot water, it's tough to beat the quality and performance of a Rinnai Tankless or Hybrid water heater.
Depending on the size of the unit, and application, a single tankless water heater can be enough to supply an entire household with endless hot water.
Replacing an existing chimney vented, tank-type water heater? Consider Rinnai's new RH180 Hybrid water heater. Depending on your existing setup, this can be a relatively easy swap out. This can provide a large 40 gallon water 'dump' for filling up whirlpool or soaking tubs, as well as providing endless hot water once that storage has been depleted.
Rinnai used to require a certification to install their products due to the high level of technical experience needed. Rinnai no longer requires that certification. We highly recommend that anyone considering a Rinnai has it installed by a qualified, experienced technician.
At Maumee Supply, we stock a large variety of models, and fuel sources of both Tankless and Hybrid Rinnai Water Heaters. Call us today (800-552-0156) to see which will work best for you!
American Table of Four
Early September 2015, four of the gentlemen that worked for Maumee Supply from the very beginning (or shortly thereafter) were able to get together for Lunch in Perrysburg at American Table restaurant. From left to right:
Dick Roberts: Dick started at Maumee Supply directly out of high school in 1958. Dick was in charge of inventory management and the Warehouse Manger until he retired in 1988 and moved to Florida with his wife, Judy. Dick was back in town for a book signing event regarding the history of Perrysburg.
George Williams: George's path with Maumee Supply began in 1959 with an investment into the business to become 1/3 partner. Under George's leadership, Maumee Supply grew and transformed, and set the foundation for the business that it is today. George acquired ownership in 1976, and still shares his wisdom and guidance.
Chick Kohl: Chick started at Maumee Supply in 1960 and had various positions around the office - growing to fill positions with Maumee Supply's growth. Chick spent most of his career with Maumee Supply as the Pricing Manager - a large job, considering each item had to be manually priced on every invoice. Chick retired in 1992.
Bernie Roberts: Bernie orginally began his career with Maumee Supply, worked for several years, and then left for a few years to work for Hardy & Dischinger Co. Bernie came back to Maumee Supply in 1987 and worked in estimation, quotations, and purchasing. Bernie retired in 2008.